Posts Tagged ‘meat’

veal calf

Ever wondered what becomes of male dairy cows? Cows that produce milk are, of course, female. So what happens to the males? We eat them, surely? Well actually no, not often.

Dairy cows are bred to be great at producing milk. But unfortunately, this is at the expense of their meat and most dairy cows are considered to produce inferior beef. And it’s worth a lot less than regular beef to the farmer.

So normally, to save the cost and bother of rearing them, male dairy cows are shot at birth.

Last year 260,000 male calves were disposed of as a waste product of the UK dairy industry.

A few more were spared being shot and were exported to the continent and used to create traditional white veal. Whether you consider these ones the lucky ones is a matter of your point of view.

White veal, as is fairly well known, is a pretty cruel way to produce meat. In order to keep the meat white, the animals are kept in crates and deprived of light and they’re fed only on a diet of milk. It’s a practice that was banned in the UK in 1990 but still continues in France, Italy and other European countries.

However, there is an alternative, which is growing in popularity.

British ‘rose ‘ veal.

It’s called rose veal because the meat is pink not white. It’s pink because the animals lead a more natural life: in daylight and eating grass, as well as their mother’s milk. It’s being promoted by the RSPCA as a much less cruel alternative to killing the animal before it has had a chance to live.

And because it is young, it still makes good meat. It’s like really tender beef.

Typically British veal calves have a lifespan of 6-8 months. This is no worse than lamb. Lamb is of course called lamb because it is a young sheep. The definition of lamb is a sheep less than 12-months old. After that it becomes mutton.

Killing an animal at birth seems incredibly cruel and wasteful. But without consumer demand for meat from male dairy cows, it is inevitably what will happen to them. Unless they are packed off to France for an even worse fate.

So if you eat milk, cheese and butter, then you should consider eating veal too. Possibly even if you’re a veggy that eats dairy. They are all products of the dairy industry. And if you consume milk, then you are in some small way responsible for the male calves.

If you buy some veal escalopes or veal mince instead of regular beef, you are also reducing the demand for regular beef, which as has been discussed a lot in the press recently, has a fairly large environmental impact.

Rose veal is becoming pretty widely available and the supermarkets seem to be increasingly stocking escallops, mince and other British veal. As with all meat, free-range or organic is the best choice as it means there are much higher welfare standards.

Fewer than one in 100 people eat veal in the UK. But what many of us have considered to be one of the most unethical culinary choices over recent years, could actually can be one of the most ethical. And we can be smug about being more caring than the French.

Excellent. Who’s for a veal burger?


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A few months ago I talked about meat. I decided I’d eat less, better meat. From animals that had led a decent and natural life and that had been farmed in a non-intensive and sustainable way.

I also made the decision that, because of its huge environmental impact, I’d restrict beef, the biggest meaty environmental offender, to a once-a-month treat.

Well, I reckon I’ve just about managed it. But there’s nothing like a bit of red meat every now and again. So I’m also pleased to say that I’ve found an excellent beef-alternative that I’ve started to buy more of.


So, a quick reminder why we should eat less meat, beef in particular.

If you live in the UK and eat meat regularly, the chances are that this makes up at least 10% of your carbon footprint. Once you add in methane (or cow fart), a greenhouse gas 25-times more potent than CO2, farming cattle accounts for nearly a fifth of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. That’s more than transport does.

Meat is really inefficient to produce. You feed the animal a lot more calories than you get out. Beef is the most inefficient by far, needing 10 kilos of feed to produce 1 kilo of beef.

Intensively farmed cows don’t often get the opportunity to eat grass as a cow should and instead are fed maize, corn and other grains. Three quarters of agricultural land in the EU is now used to grow animal feed. And the huge demand for it means that we now import feed from far-flung places such as Brazil where the pressure for land leads to deforestation and the destruction of the Amazon.

OK, so we know all this.

What about the venison?

Well, deer are wild. Even when they’re farmed, they resist domestication. This means they’re always free-range and are not intensively produced.

Although most of the venison you find in Supermarkets will be farmed, a lot of wild venison is also sold in the UK.

In Scotland and the south of England the deer population has been booming over recent years and deer have been becoming a bit of a pest. Because they cause a lot of damage to woodlands and trees, deer are often culled. This meat is usually sold, perhaps at your local butchers. So if you eat wild venison, not only has your meat had as natural a life as it possibly could, but you’re also helping to stop a small bit of deer-related deforestation and making sure that good meat doesn’t go to waste.

Even farmed deer mainly eat grass and not grain. They can be farmed on marginal land like sheep. Land that’s only good for growing grass, such as the Scottish highlands.

Cleverly, deer naturally reduce their appetite in winter, when grass is more scare and go into semi hibernation. Farmed deer are often given hay and reject root vegetables in winter. These can easily be produced locally and makes good use of second-rate veg that us humans might turn our noses up at.

Unlike cows, deer haven’t been selectively bred over centuries and so they don’t suffer from many of the diseases that traditional farm animals do. This means that they don’t need to be given antibiotics, hormones and other drugs that are commonly given to intensively farmed, non-organic cows, which also can end up in your beef.

The most humane way to kill a deer is to shoot it in its natural habitat, which is still legal for game. This means that, unlike a cow, it is spared a distressing final journey to the abattoir (which, unless the cow walks there, also creates carbon emissions). The deer is instantly killed and suffers no distress. Other deer are apparently unconcerned by one of their number suddenly dropping dead as this doesn’t happen in the wild.

And there are some very good health reasons to eat venison.

Venison is very low in fat and cholesterol and is much better for you than beef. It’s often recommended as part of a low-fat diet. It also contains more iron than any other red meat.

It’s cheaper than similar quality cuts of beef. A couple of good steaks will be around £6 and steak patties are only a couple of quid for two.

You can use it to make burgers, sausages, Bolognese, stews, casseroles or simply cook it as a steak. Pretty much anything you do with beef you can do with venison. You may need to add some fatty bacon or pork belly fat to it though as it is so lean.

Half a million years ago, when we were hunters, half our diet was venison (the word venison originally meant meat that was hunted). In medieval times, it was highly regarded meat and poaching venison from the king’s forest could cost you your hand.

Although it is now wildly farmed – there 300 deer parks producing 5 thousand deer every year in the UK – and therefore much wildly available, we still tend to treat it as exotic and something that you might only eat as an occasional indulgence. My mother delights in cooking a venison stew or “Rudolf Casserole” every Christmas Eve and includes a single whole cherry tomato – his nose. We consider it a festive (if slightly disturbing) treat.

But given that it’s better for you, cheaper and less damaging for the planet than similar meat, I think we should eat more. So next time you’re buying some beef for your tea, stop. Try buying venison instead.

Just don’t call it Rudolf.

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It’s January. Traditionally it’s a time to think about New Year’s resolutions and dieting. So I am. I’m going on a diet. But not a normal diet.

My New Year’s resolution is to employ all of the things I have learnt since I started this blog about eating in good, sustainable and fair way. I’m going on an eco diet.

In a moment I will tell you the principals of this diet.

But first I’d like to encourage anyone reading this to join me in this slimming of carbon pounds and piling on of social-conscience vitamins. If you’re going to do it, leave a comment. And then tell anyone else you think will also do it. Let’s create a weird, online, eco version of Weight Watchers. I’m serious. I’ve even created a Facebook group if you’re that way inclined.

OK, here’s the diet.


  • Eat less of it.
  • Restrict beef to a couple of times a month.
  • Always try and buy organic, free-range rare breeds.
  • Buy British, particularly pork (unless it’s lamb out of season).
  • Go to a proper butcher when possible.

Fish and seafood

  • Buy Marine Steward Council-certified wild fish if possible.
  • Eat more fish that’s on the MSC’s fish to eat list and experiment with unusual varieties.
  • Don’t eat any fish on the MSC’s fish to avoid list.
  • Don’t eat tiger prawns.
  • Eat more mussels, cockles, clams and other sustainably sourced seafood.
  • Eat less farmed salmon and trout and buy organic.
  • Don’t buy small undersized fish.
  • Go to a proper fishmonger when possible.
  • Go fishing.

Fruit and veg

  • Buy organic.
  • Buy local.
  • Buy seasonal.
  • Get a vegetable box delivered (Abel & Cole, Riverford).
  • If it’s not in season or local, treat it as a luxury item.
  • Try and grow some.


  • Buy organic, free-range eggs.
  • Buy British cheeses, organic if possible.
  • Buy organic milk, in a bag to save on packaging.
  • Buy organic butter (don’t buy margarine) and use a butter dish (less packaging).

Pasta, rice and so on

  • Eat less rice (it comes a long way) and buy organic.
  • Experiment with more local grains and pulses.
  • Buy organic dried pasta.
  • Make bread or buy organic.


  • Buy organic, fair-trade chocolate (Divine, Green & Blacks) and don’t buy crap chocolate.
  • Buy organic, fair-trade coffee (Percol, Café Direct) and don’t drink instant.
  • Buy fair-trade tea.
  • Treat goods from far away like luxuries.


  • Drink local beer and cider.
  • Check the label and don’t drink lager brewed in distant countries.
  • Preference European wines – French, Italian, Spanish – and organic or biodynamic.
  • Drink organic fruit juice (and go for apple when they’re in season).
  • Cut out fizzy pop.
  • Don’t buy bottled water.
  • Drink in a pub.

Other principals

  • Cook from scratch (no ready meals).
  • Make use of leftovers and make stock from bones.
  • Always take a bag out shopping and refuse carrier bags.
  • Avoid items with loads of packaging.
  • Shop less in supermarkets and more in proper shops.

There’s more info in previous posts on fish, meat, apples, milk, butter and alcohol.

Now like all good diets, I realise we all may lapse from time to time but that’s fine. We’re only human after all. But I think its good to have something to aim at and some principals to try and stick to.

Now all this might cost a little bit more but I reckon if you’re eating a bit less meat and cutting out some of the expensive crap like ready meals, you can balance it out.

I also think that good food, particularly meat, should be a bit more expensive. If it’s a real bargain, the alarm bells should start ringing about what corners they cut to make it so cheap. And this is something you eat. I’d rather scrimp on something else.

I think that we should all think about our food, where comes from, who farmed it and how, how it got transported to us and how sustainable it is.

If you want to be a bit greener this year, thinking about the food you buy is a really good place to start. We buy loads of it. It’s easy to make significant changes. And when you do, what you eat generally taste a hell of a lot better. And more healthy. And having started to do a lot of this over the last year, it’s making me enjoy food a lot more. And that’s as it should be.

So then. Who’s with me? Who’s going to join me on my diet?

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I’m a carnivore. I like eating meat. Sausages, a well roasted chicken, a nice steak. Yum. But I’m aware that it has its environmental issues and that I should probably eat less. I don’t really want to stop eating meat but I do want to know how to eat it in the most sustainable way.

So, first things first – why is eating meat bad for the environment?

The main reason is that it’s pretty inefficient to produce. In order to make it, you have to feed and water animals and give them room to live. You need to grow around 10 kilos of feed in order to produce a single kilo of beef. Pork is a bit better, only needing around five kilos of feed and poultry needs less than three. Cows are also thirsty buggers and so you also require 100,000 litres of water per kilo of beef. That’s about the same amount a small household gets through in an entire year. Loads.

Animals also belch and fart. Burps and farts are mainly made up of methane. Methane is a greenhouse gas that is far worse than CO2.

It’s thought that once you include the oil used to power farm machinery and produce the fertilisers needed to grow feed, meat production accounts for about 10% of the greenhouse gases contributing to warming our planet. That’s quite a significant chunk.

It’s also worth bearing in mind that the world is eating an increasing amount of meat. Global consumption has gone up by a whacking 500% since 1950. The demand for feed for the 1.3 billion cows and 1.8 billion goats and sheep that we now need to meet this growing demand means that in many parts of the world rainforest is being cut down in order to create land to grow it. This also contributes to the problem as there are fewer trees to absorb CO2.

However, it’s not all bad.

Animals also poo. And manure is a brilliant fertiliser. Cow shit is the best natural alternative to nitrogen fertilizer. Without animal poo, organic farming would be very difficult indeed.

Also, if you have female animals producing milk so you can make butter, cheese and other dairy products then you’re going to end up with as many males wandering about doing nothing, so we might as well eat them before they eat too much grain and belch out too much methane. Cattle can also help maintain the habitat for some bird species.

So taking all that onboard, I’m not going to give up my meat habit. I think eating meat is a natural thing for humans to do. However, given its huge contribution to greenhouse gas emissions, I am going try and cut down on how much I eat. Particularly beef. And I’m going to try and make sure the meat I do buy has been produced in the most environmentally sound way. Inevitably it will be a bit more expensive but if I’m eating less of it, it should even out nicely. And I reckon good meat will taste better.

So what do I need know?


Buy British. Our standards are apparently the highest in the world and it will also have traveled less far, and so will account for far fewer food miles. We also have no shortage of water in this country.

Buy meat grown in “suckler herds”, where the animals can roam around eating grass. Look out for meat labelled free-range and certain slow-growing outdoor breeds such as Aberdeen Angus, Hereford, Highland, Sussex, Welsh Black and other rare breeds. If the animal is eating grass, then that will cut down considerably on its carbon hoof print.

If beef is intensively produced the cow will have spent its life in a crowded shed, with little exercise and chance to graze on grass, requiring specially grown feed. It will also be a much less healthy animal you’re eating. Animals intensively produced are also routinely given drugs – mostly antibiotics – to stimulate growth and prevent disease in overcrowded conditions. This means there may well be unhealthy drug residues in your meat. Some think it is also contributing to the problem of the problem of bugs becoming resistant to antibiotics and may well cause us problems treating diseases in the future.

Buy organic. Meat labelled organic must comply with much stricter animal-welfare standards and it also rules out use of routine antibiotics and including animals and fish in feed – also not a particularly healthy thing to do.

Organic beef is very common and much less expensive than other organic meats.


Again, buy British. Our welfare standards are much higher than in Europe where many pigs are kept in cages they can’t turn around in. On the continent, they also do nasty things like clip the animal’s teeth to stop them biting each other in cramped conditions, something that is illegal in the UK.

Buy free-range or outdoor-reared. Outdoor-reared is much better than outdoor-bred as this means that it was born in free-range conditions but by implication was then raised indoors. Again rare-breeds that are suited to the outdoors are a good sign and will taste better. These include Gloucestershire Old Spot, Tamworth, Large Black Bershire, Saddleback, British Lop, Middle White and Oxford Sandy & Black.

Buy organic. The animal will have had better conditions and a better diet. If you can’t get organic, products marked with the Little Red Tractor or RSPCA Freedom Foods logo offer some basic animal welfare guarantees although not as high as those certified organic.


Buying good lamb is pretty easy as it’s impossible to rear sheep intensively indoors. That’s why it’s generally more expensive. Sheep are also more eco as they make use of agriculturally marginal land and also produce wool and dairy products.

Organic lamb is good as it means that the sheep have been reared naturally and in the most environmentally sound way and fed on organic feed.

Don’t buy British in the winter or early in the year. Because we mainly eat lamb, rather than mutton, it’s seasonal. Lambs are born in the early spring so eating lamb over the winter or early in the year means that it has been born unnaturally.

One solution to this is to buy New Zealand lamb. Because it’s been reared in the southern hemisphere, it’s in season when home grown lamb isn’t. But surely transporting it 12,000 miles can’t be good? Well according to the Kiwi’s on average New Zealand lamb is four times as energy efficient as UK lamb even taking in to account the shipping costs. This because on average the Kiwis use less fertiliser and concentrated feeds. Obviously, it’s not as good as organic British lamb in season but if you’re craving lamb in the winter months, it’s the best option.


Chicken welfare has been talked about a lot recently. Most people are reasonably aware of the cramped conditions that intensively farmed chickens live in. However, from a purely environmental point of view and in terms of C02 emissions, an intensively produced broiler bird has the lowest impact. It lives for a very short amount of time – 51 days – and therefore eats a relative small amount of feed.

Personally though, I’d rather eat a little less chicken and know that it was a healthy animal that had had a decent natural life. And that didn’t suffer from nasty a skin disease because it’s spent its miserable days sitting in its own shit.

Organic birds are the next best option as their feed is organic and will not have used fertilisers, which contribute a large amount to their carbon footprint. They also will have foraged some of their food themselves from living outdoors and so require a little less. Organic certified birds will have at least as good welfare standards as free-range birds and may have lived longer.

Free-range will have a similar life span (56 days) as an intensively produced bird but will have been in the open air for at least half of their life. Traditional free-range birds have smaller flock sizes and are allowed to live for longer (81 days). Obviously the longer they live the less efficient they are to produce as they eat more food. The trade off is a slight improvement in welfare against an increase in C02 emissions. Barn-reared are essentially identical to “standard birds” but with lower stocking densities and a slightly longer life (56 days).

Whichever you go for, buy British. Despite some of the terrible conditions we keep chickens in, they’re actually far better than in many parts of the world. We ship in a lot of chicken from countries such as Thailand and Brazil and as well as contributing a lot of food miles, they are likely to have been produced in very unhealthy conditions.

So there you go. I’m going to try and eat veggie for at least a couple of days a week and restrict beef to a monthly treat. I’m not going to buy lamb in the winter or early spring. I’m also going to try and buy British organic, free-range rare breeds where possible. I’ll know that the animals lived a better life. And hopefully by eating less meat, it won’t cost me much more. And what I do eat will taste better. Sounds like a fair trade. Lovely.

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